Challenge #23: Generosity & Gratitude

I know I have said that I wanted to start with challenge #24 but then I found this post on front-closing half stays and decided to join this challenge, too.

 http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2013/02/half-stays-la-paresseuse.html

Thank you very much for sharing this research and instructions on this specific lacing Sabine!!! It will be my guideline on this project.

This challenge asks to make anything that fits the general HSF guidelines, and utilizes research, patterns, and tutorials that have been made available for free.
You know how difficult it could be to lace yourself into a corset, if one has no assistance, so this option is very tempting... It is due on monday so I will have to hurry;-)

Since I do not own the mentioned "Lady's Stratgem" I had to find another pattern to use as half stays.
Fortunately my bookshelf isn't empty and I found some 1820's stays in "Corsets and Crinolines" from Norah Waugh that will serve me fine. I will simply cut the pattern to get the desired length. The back is quite high, but I will try and see how it works...

Supplies:

1. white Jean and Muslin
2. Thread for the cording
3. German fishbone for the boning

To do:

1. enlarge the pattern
2. cut and flatline the fabric
3. cording and quilting, sewing the pieces together
4. boning
5. lacing
6. ad lining and binding

The clock is ticking, so let's go!!!

This is what I did today:

To enlarge the pattern I used the "Frohne Schnittzeichner". This is a german device to enlarge any sewing pattern to the desired size. It was invented in the 1930's and mine is an original from the 50's. Today it is out of fashion but I always wanted to try it on a historical pattern, so here we go...


I am quite surprised of the result: it was actually a perfectly sized pattern and it was the fastest pattern-enlarging ever! The only thing left to do was cutting down the length of the pattern.

For the mock-up I cut out the pieces in muslin and made a first fitting. The straps will have to be longer but that can wait...

Then I went really busy, so please excuse the lack of photos.

It took me about 3 hours to do the prepare the fabric.
I never did cording before, so my first real challenge arrived here:

Curved Cording.

How is one supposed to do cording around a corner? In this situation I remembered a roll of gardening wirde I've had left on the balcony a couple of month ago... This could work as a curved needle, right?
So I fetched it and had to see that it had rusted.
But since there are no alternatives in my home this would have to work anyway. I cleaned the wire using paper-towels and tried it for cording.

Surprise!!!
It worked absolutely fine! And much faster than the needle. Next time I will use wire for the straight parts as well!
Some pictures:

ugly bust-gores

neat bust-gores

using wire for the cording

These stays are actually smiling at me! I take this as a good sign and will continue tomorrow...