Sonntag, 16. März 2014

Challenge # 5: Bodice

For challenge #5 I decided not to make a dress bodice but a chemisette to be worn underneath. Since it will be displayed at the neckline I decided it is Ok for this challenge. A chemisette only has one seam: the shoulder seam. Both front and back pieces have a tunnel at the hem to hold a drewstring which is then used to tie the garment around the waist. This way one can change the neckline of a dress into something moderate for day waer.
This particular chemisette will be worn with my future 1839 day dress.

The challenge facts:

The Challenge: #5 Bodice
Fabric: leftover scraps of cotton batist
Pattern: "Patterns of Fashion 1"
Year: 1830s
Notions: polyester thread
How historically accurate is it? Not very much. It is completely machine sewn. Fabric and pattern are good so I give myself 60%
Hours to complete: 5ish
First worn: finished 30 minutes ago so not worn yet.
Total cost: Nothing!! 100% Stash

The picture of the original dress shows the chemisette I am using as inspiration for this challenge.

For the pattern I used view C of Janet Arnolds selection of chemisettes in "Patterns of Fashion 1"

Here we go:

I started with making 2 patterns. View C and view F and then decided to go with view C.


 Here you can see the alterations I made on the pattern. I lengthened both parts and made the shoulder part a bit more narrow.

The fabric is the same I used to make my 1883 chemise; a lightweight cotton batist.

Front view                                                                       ....Back view


The next step was making the drawstring. I used the serger to form a very narrow string and then turned it inside out.
Then I hemmed both pieces and made the tunnels about 1,5cm wide.

Then I made the ruche for the neckline. I used a 6cm wide self fabric strip and folded it lenghtwise. Then I hemmed it with a rolled seam. To have a neat finish I made a facing for the neckline as well.

And here is my finished chemisette!!


Neckline detail

This is an ugly mock up of a ballgown bodice  I never finished. The neckline is somewhat similar to the one on my future 1839 dress.

Now I really have to start on the dress....
fashion plate