Paisley & Plaid

The Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge #14 Paisly and Plaid was due two days ago so it is high time for me to show you what I did.
I don't have any fabric containing a paisly pattern and the only plaid fabric I have is from one of my UFOs. Unfortunately I can not complete my UFO for this challenge because of various reasons.
The fabric is reserved for a 1878 Day Dress Basque, but it is quite much. So I took some scraps and reflected on what to do with it...
I then decided to make a new hatband for one of my Belle Epoque hats. The original black hat decoration is mounted on a flexible hatband to make a change possible easily.

This is what I did:

The plaid fabric is a synthetic taffeta I cut into ribbons in different width. The edges are not sewn, but frayed and the hatband I used was a leftover waistband from the mentioned 1878 Day Dress.

There is a bis bow and some loops at the front and a smaller bow at the back. I implemented an elastic strip underneath the back bow to make it easy to swap hat bands. On one side I then attached three white ostrich plumes.

The Challenge Facts:

The Challenge: #14 Paisly and Plaid - A Belle Epoque hat decoration

Fabric: Plaid taffeta scraps

Pattern: none

Year: 1895-1905

Notions: 3 ostrich plumes, polyester thread, elastic

How historically accurate is it? Not at all I'm afraid.

Hours to complete: ca. 1,5

First worn: Right now

Total cost: 4,50€ for the feathers

#7 Tops and Toes

I am on time!!!
Deadline for this challenge is today and I finished my new hat about two hours ago!
First I thought about making stockings but then I ended up with a hat I started in february.
I bought a Lynn McMasters pattern for four different Belle Epoque Hats and could not resist to start on two of those hats straight away.

Since I am planning on making a 1898 afternoon dress this year I need a matching hat to go with it. Back in January I found a nice sample in one of my books which will now be my inspiration.

Have a look here!

The construction was quite similar to my Bustle Era hat so I will not give all the details...

For the hat base I cut out the pieces in buckram and then added the millinery wire to the outer edge of the brim and crown tip.
After the wire was attached I continued sewing together the side crown edges and then attach the crown tip to the crown sides.

 

Then I glued on some muslin as bias edge and mulling.
I did this on both sides of the brim and on the crown sides and tip.

Since the dress will be all black and I have lots of that fabric (cotton poplin) I am using the same fabric for the hat. The fashion fabric is sewn to the crown tip first. Then the sides and brim fallow...
I am using glue to help keep everything in place before I sew the  fabric to crown sides and brim.

The crown is then attached to the brim by hand. For the hat lining I used some leftover taffetta and black poplin. The brim edges are covered in black satin bias tape.

 

For the trimmings I made a 2 metre strip of black Sinamay and glued a narrow satin ribbon to the edges.  Then I formed a bow and four loops to be attached to my hat.

The hat band will be a string of pearls. I bought black coloured wooden beads which I inserted into a tunnel of black organza I made from organza ribbon. Then I tied black thread around the tunnel to form the hat band. Just like a necklace!
This alone took me about two hours!!! The Monsters of Disney's "Monsters University" kept me entertained while working on the pearls.

 A first fitting on the hat. Nothing fixed yet...

The bow and loops are sewn to a satin ribbon which is then tied around the hat crown. This way I am flexible in the style of the hat and can easily change trimmings. Mayby I am making something more colourful for my back-up trimming.












The Challenge: #7 Tops and Toes
Fabric: Sinamay, Cotton Poplin, buckram
Pattern: Lynn McMasters "La Belle Epoque Hat"
Year: 1895 thru early 20th century

Notions: satin ribbon, organza ribbon, millinery wire, wooden beads
How historically accurate is it? The pattern is accurate and the trimmings are OK as well. 85%?
Hours to complete: 15ish
First worn: just finished
Total cost: close to 50€


Lots of pictures!!!!!!!!!


Inspiration:

Finished Hat:

This bow is also optional. It can be attached on top of the back bow.