Sonntag, 21. September 2014

Edwardian Underwear

My edwardian corset and some more undies are finished!
After two more weeks (with not too much sewing) I finally have everything to go underneath the future yellow gown:

The challenge details:
The Challenge: #19 HSF Inspiration - Laurens Corset and improvers made for this years challenge #4 Under it All
Fabric: 0,5 metres silk taffeta, 1m cotton jean
Pattern: TV E01
Year: 1903
Notions: Busk, spiral steel, flat steel, lace, ribbon, polyester thread, suspenders, two old cotton napkins, batting, more ribbon and more lace.
How historically accurate is it? Pretty accurate, although I am not so sure about the silk beeing flatlined to cotton.
Hours to complete: about 20
First worn: At home - no wearing in public until I have made that yellow dress...
Total cost: about 60€ for new supplies + a lot of stash material

S-Curve Corset
For my new pretty corset I used the TV E01 pattern for a 1903 Edwardian Corset. Lauren of Wearing History has used the same pattern to finish a beautiful corset and improvers earlier this year and I used her pictures and description as inspiration for my own interpretation.
I wanted to have
- lovely lace in two different width
- a big bow
- ribbon covered garters with more bows
- flossing

I just love the corset shape at the hip! And all the bows!

Sicne I was in a hurry (kind of) I usea a simple flossing pattern. I bought the ribbon for the bows to match the colour of the flossing.

Various pads to improve the figure:

I made my falsies using Laurens pictures as guide. After putting them into the corset however, I felt that it just wasn't enough...
So I made the bust cushions included with the corset pattern to have even more fullness. The fabric is from the same napkin as the bust improver. These two little pads really do the trick!
The hip pad was made last year along with the muslin corset. I used leftover silk scraps from one of Moms old blouses. The pattern was included with the corset pattern as well.

TV E02 bust pads to go under the girls.


 I was really upset with my poor corset progress so I treated myself with another Truly Victorian pattern:
TV E02 pattern for Edwardian Underwear.

I used my beloved cotton batiste to make these drawers. They have a nice wide handkerchief flounce edged with broderie anglaise and some more trimming using the same ribbon colour like the corset bows. Unfortunately I didn't buy enough ribbon so until now only one leg  has the ribbon trimming...

The open drawers close with a mother of pearl button in front and a tie string at centre back.

A Corset Cover

This one is totally ridiculous! Two rows of ruffles with more brodierie anglaise add very much volume to the bust era. I decided against combinations to be able to wear another corset cover with the drawers.

The corset cover is from cotton batiste and closing at the centre front using four buttons.

A Petticoat

For my new petticoat I used a 1901 pattern from Frances Grimble's "The Voice of Fashion".
Since I just inherited lots of bed- linen from my grandma I had enough white fabric to make a petticoat to go with my edwardian outfit.

Two sheets were necessary to sew this skirt. It is a simple pattern, so I didn't make up a paper pattern. For sure that was the reason why I made one wrong cut on the side piece...

I didn't want to cut a new side piece so I just added the missing piece with one of the embroidery stitches on my sewing machine.

For the flounce I used another heirloom from grandma. It is lace I actually found in her stash! And without measuring or even knowhing how much I needed it was just the perfect length! On the centimetre (560 in total)!

I count that as a very good sign! This cotton lace is very old and has some damaged spots, but it gives the special period look I was looking for. I believe that this lace belonged to some kind of curtain originally.
Since the lace wasn't as wide as the lower flounce I used white satin ribbon to create the crossing to the cotton sheet.

The lace really gives the special touch to this petticoat!

For comparison:
without padding...

Maybe we'll finally have a yellow dress next week???


fashion plate