Samstag, 15. November 2014

A new dress and lots of "Re-Do´s"

For my choir`s last concert I needed a new, entirely black dress. Since I only had 5 days time to sew an entire outfit, I decided on something really easy, plain and quickly done.
I bought black cotton poplin for 1€ per metre last year and intended to sew the Afternoon Dress mentioned in my Possible Projects post back in January. Now I´ve used it fo my new concert gown.

The current HSF challenge to accomplish is "Re-Do" which also was my very first challenge finished for last years Historical Sew Fortnightly.

Re-Do 1
I started on Monday to make a new corset. Since I wanded to wear it on wednesdays dress rehearsal I didn`t floss or otherwise embellish it. The pattern used is LM100 - Dore.
Since I wasn`t keen on buying new supplies, I used the steels from my first try on the Dore pattern and a longer busk from my stash.

 New corset                                                                     Supplying corset


The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
#4 Under it All, #9 Black and White, #12 Shape and Support, 16 Terminology (corset)

Fabric: 1m cotton twill
Pattern: LM 100 - DoreYear: 1837 - 1899
Notions: polyester lacing and thread, 5mm grommets, spiral steel, flat steel, busk, twill tape, satin bias tape for the binding
How historically accurate is it?  Pretty much
Hours to complete: 5
First worn: 29 of October for my choir´s dress rehearsal 
Total cost: I´d guess on about 30-40€ - everything was from my stash or recycled

Re-Do 2
After finishing the corset I made a very light-weight petticoat from 5 metres of charmeuse.
This one:

I didn´t use a pattern, but simply gathered a long strip of the same material on a rectangel piece of charmeuse. Then I finely pleated it into a twill waistband.
This petticoat will work for a number of periods, although it is not material accurate. It gives lots of volume while beeing super light and comfortable.

The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
#4 Under it All, #9 Black and White, #12 Shape and Support

Fabric: 5m charmeuse
Pattern: none - just a rectangel piece of fabric
Year: 19th Century
Notions: polyester thread, twill tape
How historically accurate is it?  Not at all
Hours to complete: 2
First worn: 1st of November for a Concert
Total cost: 14€

Re-Do 3
The pattern used for my new skirt is TV 298 - Umbrella Skirt. I made a mock-up of this pattern last year, but never made a fashion fabric one, so I´m counting this one as UFO for the current challenge.
It is a very easy pattern with some darts and only one seam to sew.

Here it is:

My mock-up                                                                      the finished skirt


The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
 #8 UFO, #9 Black and White,

Fabric: 10m cotton poplin
Pattern: TV298 Umbrella skirt
Year: 1892
Notions: polyester thread, hooks and eyes, a zipper, some undefined, stiff, gold fabric as hem stiffener
How historically accurate is it?  It is accurate aside from the zipper and that golden fabric as stiffener
Hours to complete: 4
First worn: 1st of November for a Concert
Total cost: 10€ for the fabric, 2€ for the zipper

Re Do 4
The Bodice is a TV pattern as well, although slightly altered in the back. Just like the skirt I started a mock-up last year and never continued. Since I didn`t intend to make a perfectly historical dress I mixed up periods to my pleasure and taste. The bodice is boned with spiral steel and closing with buttons at the centre front.




The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
#5 Bodice, #8 UFO, #9 Black and White

Fabric: 3,5m cotton poplin, 1m cotton twill
Pattern: TV416 Year: 1870s
Notions: polyester thread, spiral steel, 18 buttons
How historically accurate is it?  The buttons are plastic and I didn´t use trimmings, but everything else is good.
Hours to complete: 6
First worn: 1st of November for a Halloween Party
Total cost: 4€ for the fabrics, 6€ for the buttons. The rest was recycled from old garments

Dienstag, 11. November 2014

1936 Pyjamas

A few days after purchasing my 1930s Frohne Modell Album I started sewing my new Pyjamas. My first Pyjamas to sew, as a matter of fact.
As described the procedure to enlarge the patterns is requiring a special tool, which has been provided by Frohne as well. Since I purchased the tool along with some 1950s Albums last year I wasn't worried until I opened the 30s pattern to discover that the scale must have been changed...
So I tried to calculate/ measure/ guess on the new dimensions and made a muslin mock up. Honestly I am not overly fond of making mock-ups, but with that much guesswork I just had to do it.

To save fabric I only scaled up and made half the pyjama (right side only - good thing there are no pictures of that!).
The legs of the trousers were way to big, but the only thing needing adjustments on the blouse were the sleeves.

Please do excuse the lack of fotos, since I was in kind of a hurry to finish it. Only three days after starting the pattern I went on a trip and I sure wanted to wear my new pyjamas!

Here they are:

These Pyjamas are super comfy and I just love the puff sleeves and the bow!

The blouse is closing with three mother of pearl buttons and a tie-belt. Since I tried hard to match the pattern it is kind of difficult to see on this picture, but there is one patch pocket on each side.
The trousers have an elastic set into the waistband and no other closure.

The fabric used is cotton poplin with a 3% content of spandex. I believe this is not so accurate, but it is truly comfortable!

So from now on I can sleep and dream myself into my own Alternative Universe (lot's of gorgeous dresses, you bet!)

The Challenge facts:

1936 Pyjamas

The Challenge: #20 HSF Alternative Universe
Fabric: 4m cotton poplin- 3% spandex
Pattern: Fohne Modelle 78/36
Year: 1936
Notions: 3 mother of pearl buttons, polyester thread
How historically accurate is it? The spandex content isn't accurate, but the rest is spot on!
Hours to complete: about 15 hours
First worn: 22nd of October 2014 - lots of good dreams that night!
Total cost: 37,40€ for the fabric, 1,95€ for the buttons



Not in fashion though, but on my blog

After one year and four days my blog finally has a new look!
With the precious help of Vanessa of Sewing Empire I now have the feeling that this page is really reflecting on me and my work the way I always wanted it to be. Thank you Vanessa!

Watch out for the new pages on top of the page where you will find a gallery with finished projects for each century on a separate page. Hopefully these galleries will grow with time...

I hope you all like the new look on my Blog as much as I do!

And now: back to sewing pretty dresses!!!

Dienstag, 14. Oktober 2014

40s Patterns!

Yay! My new patterns arrived today!

After some problems with my local post office ("No, that must be a mistake. We don't have anything for you...") and some scary nights of thinking I would never see these patterns they showed up today.

Look at these:




 All of these patterns are un-used. Four have been opened but to my delight they are "new" and complete.

The sewing instructions are given on the inside of the cover or directly on the pattern piece. The specialty coming with all patterns is the new "fabric saver" which is a guide on how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric economically. Today these "fabric savers" are a matter of course in modern ready to sew patterns.
How to make shoulder pads in the 1940s - instructions placed directly on the sleeve pattern

The instructions on the dress closure are given directly on the pattern pieces too. And with pictures!

One of the patterns is labelled "Der bunte Schnitt" which translates into "the colourful pattern" and I was wondering what it meant until I opened it up. The pattern pieces are colourful indeed! Pink, blue and yellow. As you can see there are quite many instructions given with this pattern. This time on the inside of the cover.
One wonders why these patterns have never been opened up. They are in the original wrapping and it is obvious that these patterns are new...
Not for long!
I promise!

Mittwoch, 8. Oktober 2014

Frohne Modelle

New patterns!!!
Sometimes there are offers on ebay I just cannot resist. Like an original "Frohne Moldell Album" from 1936 Germany, which I bought last sunday.

I really want to show off my new patterns which arrived today, so please expect many many pictures.
And more pictures...

The album itself is in a rather good condition, although I was wondering how to open it... The patterns of all the pretty dresses are on the backside of each page showing off clothes.
It turned out that the album is closed with press-studs. And rather rusted ones as well...
Since I didn't want to damage the binding I used a large ruler to open the studs which then looked like this:


 The first page isn't the prettiest of all and luckily only the first three pages of the manual are "aged" in that way.

I removed all pages and used a paint brush to dust off some of the rust and old dust.

Actually I think it is a very clever construction.
The cover is made from cardboard and has made a very good job protecting the contents of the album. Every pattern is in perfect condition:-)

"Frohne" started releasing sewing patterns for home use in the early 30s and is providing Womens, Mens and Childrens wear in every issue. I'm not sure how often these early editions got released, but I also own some 50s issues which were labelled as Spring/ Summer and Autumn/ Winter, so two times a year.

Aside from the fact that every model in this book is 100% authentic it is actually very funny to read the inscriptions, which a usually one sentence exactly.

Now lets see those models, shall we?

















Yes, I am now the proud owner of patterns for EVERY SINGLE garment you've just seen!!!
Do click on the pictures to enlarge them a little and notice all the funny little details like the gentleme in his dressing gown holding a hairbrush and comb! Or model 83 - open crotched drawes were obviously still used.

Since I own some 1950s "Frohne Modelle" as well, I couldn't help but compare. Look at these Dirndl Dresses from
1936                                                                                 and 1957

To use the patterns the "Frohne Schnittzeichner" (which I bought as a bargain with my 50s albums) is required. It is a tool to enlarge patterns to every imaginable size.

My "Schnittzeichner" in it's original box.


Sincy body types vary a lot every issue is offering a range especially designed for plus-sized Ladies. Those models are inscripted
"Für stärkere Damen" which translates into "For strong Ladies"
The later Frohne issues simply state an "a" beside the pattern number to indicate it is suitable for plus-sized Ladies.
Frohne recommends using these specific patterns if a lady has a bust circumfence of more than 108cm.

Frohne Modell pattern sheet
One particular model catched my eye directly:

1936 Pyjamas

 The inscription:

Pyjamas with puff sleeves, knotted belt and patch pockets.
Fabric requirements: 4,5m for a fabric width of 0,8m.

The experienced seamstress can easily use all these patterns without the tool, so feel free to make your own pyjamas!
It is the pattern above;-)
(Please mind the pattern piece numbers required in the picture to the left)
My pattern madness doesn't stop here... 
I won an auction for some ready to use 40s patterns as well, so stay tuned for more pretty pictures (and patterns for me)

If you are wondering what happened to my yellow dress project, the fabric is still a curtain and the pattern still in the book... Maybe I'll manage it for the Re-Do challenge...

fashion plate