Sonntag, 29. März 2015

A Stash Bonnet

After I "missed" the first two challeges of the Historical Sew Monthly I finally finished an item to submit!
Challenge #3 is Stashbusting and I chose to make another bonnet from one of my Lynn McMasters Patterns.

It is a U.S. Civil War Period Bonnet made from buckram, straw and silk.
The construction was quite similar to my last (still unfinished) straw bonnet: the straw braid is sewn to the buckram base and after lining the inside brim the pieces are joined together.

Here we go!

Crown and brim waiting to get joined.

A detail of the shirred brim lining.
The seam allowance is tucked between the buckram and the straw layer to create a neat finish.

All pattern pieces are sewn together and the bavolet (neck frill) is attached. The bavolet is finished with a narrow rolled hem. The fine lines inside the crown indicate the straw braid sewn on the outside of the bonnet.

Setting in the lining and testing my new silk pins.

Ties attached and waiting to get trimmed. Although in this piccture it looks like the fabric is shiny, it actually is not.

The trimmings contain ostrich feathers, self fabric ribbon and "something" from my flower stash.
 Front view (should I add more trimmings on the inside?)   Back view

The challenge details:

 A Civil War Period Bonnet

The Challenge: #3 Stashbusting
Fabric: 1m dove blue silk from my grandma's stash. It has been in there since her Thailand trip back in the 90s. It came to my stash last fall.
Pattern: Lynn McMasters Civil War Period Bonnet - In my stash for a couple of months
Year: 1860s
Notions: Buckram from a roll that has been in my stash since November 2013.
Straw braid recycled fom some old cowboy hats, which have been in my stash for over a year.
Silk thread from grandma's stash - in my stash since fall 2014
Some garland from my flower stash (yes, that is a thing!). It has probably been in there for about 6 months
Ostrich feathers (about a year old) from my millinery stash.
How historically accurate is it? The pattern is accurate, straw, buckram, silk and feathers are as well, but that flower thing is not accurate at all. I also used glue in some spaces, which isn't accurate and also mixed machine and hand sewing.
Hours to complete: 10-12 hours
Total cost: Completely from stash!!! No idea what grandma paid for the fabric, but everything else would be about 20€ altogether.

More pictures!

My Stash
Left: That is where it started in no order. Mostly old curtains, actually. The white plastic bag contains fabric scraps...
Below: "fine" fabrics

Buckram rolls, more fabric, the flower stash (cardboard box).
 The millinery stash is on top of the bookshelf.

Linen and cotton pile. The plastic bag holds my "blue" challenge fabric. The box is keeping coutil.

fashion plate