Samstag, 15. November 2014

A new dress and lots of "Re-Do´s"

For my choir`s last concert I needed a new, entirely black dress. Since I only had 5 days time to sew an entire outfit, I decided on something really easy, plain and quickly done.
I bought black cotton poplin for 1€ per metre last year and intended to sew the Afternoon Dress mentioned in my Possible Projects post back in January. Now I´ve used it fo my new concert gown.

The current HSF challenge to accomplish is "Re-Do" which also was my very first challenge finished for last years Historical Sew Fortnightly.

Re-Do 1
I started on Monday to make a new corset. Since I wanded to wear it on wednesdays dress rehearsal I didn`t floss or otherwise embellish it. The pattern used is LM100 - Dore.
Since I wasn`t keen on buying new supplies, I used the steels from my first try on the Dore pattern and a longer busk from my stash.

 New corset                                                                     Supplying corset


The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
#4 Under it All, #9 Black and White, #12 Shape and Support, 16 Terminology (corset)

Fabric: 1m cotton twill
Pattern: LM 100 - DoreYear: 1837 - 1899
Notions: polyester lacing and thread, 5mm grommets, spiral steel, flat steel, busk, twill tape, satin bias tape for the binding
How historically accurate is it?  Pretty much
Hours to complete: 5
First worn: 29 of October for my choir´s dress rehearsal 
Total cost: I´d guess on about 30-40€ - everything was from my stash or recycled

Re-Do 2
After finishing the corset I made a very light-weight petticoat from 5 metres of charmeuse.
This one:

I didn´t use a pattern, but simply gathered a long strip of the same material on a rectangel piece of charmeuse. Then I finely pleated it into a twill waistband.
This petticoat will work for a number of periods, although it is not material accurate. It gives lots of volume while beeing super light and comfortable.

The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
#4 Under it All, #9 Black and White, #12 Shape and Support

Fabric: 5m charmeuse
Pattern: none - just a rectangel piece of fabric
Year: 19th Century
Notions: polyester thread, twill tape
How historically accurate is it?  Not at all
Hours to complete: 2
First worn: 1st of November for a Concert
Total cost: 14€

Re-Do 3
The pattern used for my new skirt is TV 298 - Umbrella Skirt. I made a mock-up of this pattern last year, but never made a fashion fabric one, so I´m counting this one as UFO for the current challenge.
It is a very easy pattern with some darts and only one seam to sew.

Here it is:

My mock-up                                                                      the finished skirt


The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
 #8 UFO, #9 Black and White,

Fabric: 10m cotton poplin
Pattern: TV298 Umbrella skirt
Year: 1892
Notions: polyester thread, hooks and eyes, a zipper, some undefined, stiff, gold fabric as hem stiffener
How historically accurate is it?  It is accurate aside from the zipper and that golden fabric as stiffener
Hours to complete: 4
First worn: 1st of November for a Concert
Total cost: 10€ for the fabric, 2€ for the zipper

Re Do 4
The Bodice is a TV pattern as well, although slightly altered in the back. Just like the skirt I started a mock-up last year and never continued. Since I didn`t intend to make a perfectly historical dress I mixed up periods to my pleasure and taste. The bodice is boned with spiral steel and closing with buttons at the centre front.




The Challenge: # 21 Re Do
#5 Bodice, #8 UFO, #9 Black and White

Fabric: 3,5m cotton poplin, 1m cotton twill
Pattern: TV416 Year: 1870s
Notions: polyester thread, spiral steel, 18 buttons
How historically accurate is it?  The buttons are plastic and I didn´t use trimmings, but everything else is good.
Hours to complete: 6
First worn: 1st of November for a Halloween Party
Total cost: 4€ for the fabrics, 6€ for the buttons. The rest was recycled from old garments


fashion plate